Pouco Instagramável: A Sustentabilidade na Comunicação Digital da Moda Autoral Portuguesa
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.17231/comsoc.45(2024).5370Palavras-chave:
moda, sustentabilidade, comunicação digital, InstagramResumo
A conceção da insustentabilidade da indústria da moda começa a ser amplamente reconhecida, tornando urgente a necessidade de incentivos de forma a produzir com maior respeito pelo meio ambiente e pelos recursos humanos. Os atributos comummente associados à oferta de moda de autor, como a durabilidade, a criatividade e a estética, vêm possibilitar que o trabalho autoral se posicione na liderança da moda sustentável. Para que tal ocorra, revela-se fundamental que esta mensagem chegue aos consumidores. Com a indispensabilidade da comunicação digital para alcançar o público das marcas, é premente compreender o destaque dado às questões da sustentabilidade nas plataformas digitais da moda autoral portuguesa. As análises temática reflexiva e do conteúdo publicado no Instagram de 47 designers que apresentaram as suas coleções na “ModaLisboa” ou no “Portugal Fashion” permitiram constatar um desinteresse generalizado pela promoção do fator sustentabilidade. Foram categorizadas e analisadas 2.753 publicações, concluindo que a plataforma digital é, em larga escala, usada para expor o produto final, sendo preteridas as informações relacionadas com os processos produtivos, as matérias-primas ou a mão de obra. Estes temas foram apenas observados em cerca de 10% do total de conteúdos, sendo omissos num conjunto significativo dos designers e das marcas de moda analisados. Esta investigação apresenta importantes contributos: um cruzamento pioneiro entre moda, sustentabilidade e comunicação digital portuguesas, que permite reduzir a escassez de trabalhos na área, bem como a recomendação de boas práticas de comunicação e educação para a sustentabilidade da moda autoral nacional.
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